February 06, 2008

Carnival in Italy

Yesterday was Fat Tuesday.  Fat Tuesday is the culmination of two weeks of parties and celebration before Ash Wednesday comes and people try to be 'good' for a few weeks.  As Italy is a predominantly Catholic country, so obviously Ash Wednesday is an important religious day.  Hence Carnival is celebrated in many different Italian towns in many different ways.

Venice

Arguably the most famous of the celebrations takes place in Venice.  Hotel rooms and events are booked up months in advance to make your reservations this summer for next year's Carnival events.  For the two weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday there are costume balls, concerts, special dinners, mask parades and on the last day of the Carnival celebration there is an awesome fireworks celebration in the main center of the city.

Find more information including videos of the latest Carnival events, the weather forecast and a calendar of events at the Carnival of Venice website.

Viareggio

Viareggio is a town located on the Versilian Coast of Tuscany.  Primarily a beach resort, the town has come alive during the two weeks of Carnival for over a century.  Viareggio's events are more family friendly than Venice's.  Annually the Viareggio Carnival brings about 800,000 to the beach town.  The Viareggio is most famous for its parades.  You can see some parade highlights online at various sites.  There are several parades during the two weeks and admission is charged.  The cost is not much.  In 2008 prices were euro15 for adults and euro10 for children (10-12 years).  Under 10 years old are free.  Reserved seats will cost an additional euro15 per person.  For most recent ticket prices visit the Viareggio Carnival Web Site.  The town also has a museum which shows the process of building the floats and masks used during the Carnival parades.  The museum has very limited hours though so it's best to check the web site to avoid disappointment.

There are also several other Carnival celebrations all over Italy including the Ivrea Orange Throwing Carnevale, a Roman Carnevale in the Aosta Valley of northern Italy, Brazilian Carnival in Cento, a small town in Emilia Romagna.

For more information about the above Carnival events and more follow the above links and see a comprehensive list at About.com. 

If you would like to share your own personal Italy Carnival experiences leave a comment below.

January 27, 2008

Dollar Got You Down?

Does the high cost of traveling to Europe this summer have you questioning whether to consider another destination?  Wait!  This handy article by Rick Steves will hopefully give you some newfound confidence you can make it over the pond and back without having to take out a home mortgage.

January 24, 2008

Rome Neighborhoods

Rome like any national capital it is a large city.  But luckily it's not as large as some capitals such as London or Paris.  It's not inconceivable for someone staying in Rome, who has a well located hotel, to be able to walk everywhere they need to go without much trouble.

But Rome can be hilly.  The Eternal City is built on seven hills and even though walking is possible, in a good day you'll put the miles on.  So it is important to find a good hotel which won't break the bank yet have some character both inside and in the immediate surroundings.

If you have never been to Rome before and don't have a feel for the geography of the city then this article should be able to help you at least get an idea where you want to stay.

THE RAIL STATION AREA - Most people arrive in Rome by rail.  Even if you fly, the train will get you into town.  The area near the station is mainly seedy.  The buildings are relatively modern and non-descript.  For many years the area was unsafe but recent efforts have cleaned it up to be at least tolerable in the daytime.  It's still not a place I'd frequent late at night alone.  There are many nice little hotels north of the station in the Via Palestro vicinity.  It's just a couple blocks away from the station but quiet and frequented by many students and backpack types.  One hotel to consider is Hotel Romae.  The owners are wonderful and will always make sure you have a good time.  If you are young and on a budget this would be a good area to be.  You can take the metro to Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps) or you can walk it in about 25-30 minutes.  The other side of the station (unfortunately closer to the main sites) is not as nice.  I'd avoid the hotels in this area if possible.  There are too many better places to stay.

VIA NAZIONALE/QUIRINALE AREA - I like Via Nazionale.  I've spent many an evening walking up and down this boulevard.  It is busy and noisy, but I like the overall location.  My favorite hotel, Hotel Miami, has inside rooms which are quiet even when the window are open.  The front rooms have a view of the busy street below and are soundproofed.  From this part of Via Nazionale, the walk to the Spanish Steps is only about 15 minutes.  The Via Nazionale has many local shops, restaurants and hotels and is well lit for evening safety.  Since it is not in the oldest part of the city prices are reasonable.

SPANISH STEPS AREA - The Spanish Steps area is definitely one of the more exclusive part of the city. Much like Rodeo Drive or Park Avenue you'll find the best of everything.  Mostly on the streets leading away from the square such as Via Condotti.  Famous hotels such as the Hassler Villa Medici and the Grand Hotel Plaza area also here.  But you'll also find some smaller places.  The problem is that you'll have to pay a premium and for me the location is not that much better than others in Rome.  I'm sure some will disagree.

VIA VENETO AREA - Another world-famous area, the Via Veneto is another wide boulevard of a street.  It winds its way from what I would consider the border of the main center of Rome to the Piazza Barberini.  The area has many embassies (inlcuding the US Embassy) and really takes on a feeling of just that.  There are some luxury hotels but many, many 4 star 'tour-type' properties.  This is because the proximity is fairly good to the main sites yet busses can still get in and out without much trouble.  Like the Piazza di Spagna area, everything here will cost more and the location is just so-so for the individual traveler.  If you can afford this area, you can afford other areas of Rome with better location and more charm.

HISTORICAL CENTER (TREVI FOUNTAIN/PANTHEON/PIAZZA NAVONA/CAMPO DEI FIORI) - Winding, narrow, cobblestone streets.  This is the Rome you've read about.  Finding a good hotel in this area which won't consume your entire travel budget will be a challenge but it can be done.  The best thing about staying in this area is that ALL the main sites of Rome are within 30 minutes walking and most are within 15 minutes.  Also, it's not a particularly exclusive part of the city like the Spanish Steps area so restaurants and shops are not all for the jet set either.  One nice hotel, Hotel Cesari,  in the area is just off Via del Corso a two minute walk from the Pantheon.  It's been recently fully renovated and the staff is very helpful and friendly.  But there are many offers in this area so shop around.

COLOSSEUM/ROMAN FORUM AREA - This is not a particulary popular area to find many hotels but there are some.  While the location is not bad I'd stick mostly to the area somewhere near Via dei Fori Imperiale and avoid Via Cavour.  Via Cavour is another non-descript street where you will find hotels easy to forget.  If you stick closer to the Via dei Fori Impreriale (particularly toward the Piazza Venezia) you might get a room with a view of the Roman Forum or even the Colosseum.  From this part of town it's only a 15 minute walk to the Pantheon and the heart of everything.  It's been a long time since I've stayed there, but the Hotel Richmond satisifed my requirements quite well.

VATICAN AREA - Unless you are going to Rome with the primary purpose to spend most of your time at the Vatican, I'd highly advise against staying in this area.  The area itself is not bad.  The problem is that the Vatican area is at least 20-30 minutes walking to everything else you are in Rome to see.  There are lots of hotels to choose from of which many are in the budget category.  If you choose to stay here though bring some comfortable shoes or plan on spending a good amount on cab fare.

TRASTEVERE - This area is far removed (the name translates to 'across the Tiber') and again not necessarily advised.  I do include it though because it is a popular place for dinner and/or nightlife.  There are not many hotels but several apartments.  If you can find a place closer to the center take it.  If not, Trastevere is a pleasant neighborhood and the only area I'd consider outside the main center.  Again, just be prepared to learn the bus routes and times.

There are many other neighborhoods in Rome but anything more distant than those I've mentioned I'd take a serious look at before committing.  Ask your hotelier how long it takes to walk to the Trevi Fountain or Pantheon.  These are good central points in the main center to use as a gauge.

On your first trip to Rome you should be in the main center or very near (ie. one of the neighborhoods I described above).  On subsequent trips when you are verse using the bus or metro system then rent an apartment in the outskirts.  You will save a ton of money and get a truly authentic Italian/Roman experience.

Any questions or comments?  Post a comment below.

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